Antisana South Summit, 2021


Marco Solís, Felipe Arpi

  • Date: January 31, 2021
  • Mountain: Antisana, South Summit
  • Elevation: 5,706 m
  • Route: “Northwest Face”

The southern summit of Antisana. This rock, ice and snow peak is always changing its conditions and can present different challenges for your climb.

This time together with Felipe we camped near the Los Crespos glacier. And after analyzing the conditions of the mountain, the most obvious and direct line that seemed to lead to its summit was following the front of the peak; Although at around 5200m we found some seracs and vertical ice walls that we avoided climbing to speed up the ascent, for which a long journey was made on snow to find an easier pass at almost 5350m that came out to the summit snow edge that led us directly to the summit of this very technical peak.

We left at 00:30 from the camp and managed to reach the summit at 6:30, giving a total of 6 hours of technical climbing on rock, ice and snow. We formed a great team that allowed us to move quickly during the early morning and with the light of the full moon, to avoid the dangers of avalanches and rock falls that are more frequent in the day.

Surely this was a new route or at least a variant, since this peak always changes its conditions and topography, which means that you can never take a route exactly similar to the previous one.

Author: Marco Solís


* Photos courtesy of Marco Solís

Antisana Ecological Reserve